Lets get one thing straight. The word “epic” got pretty warned out these days, just like claiming seems to be the next best thing in surfing all around the world. It is a circus.
It is not epic just because you are there, nor just because it turns glassy. ”Epic” hits once or maybe twice every few years, when you score conditions that usually never happen or have possibly never had happened before. Otherwise it would not be epic. It would be random, regular, classic, whatever.
On Saturday 17.12.2011 Barbariga was epic. Period.
Three years straight it did not even break. This year it worked three times, waist high and choppy. Yesterday it was close to 2m, cleaners even more. If you got caught inside, it washed you in and at least 50m down the coast like a little puppet. The power was unimaginable for waves of Adriatic. It tubed and spit out. Nobody has seen it like that before and some guys out there, were chasing it for almost ten years. This is epic… and hopefully this is a legit time to claim, haha.
Me and Katja documented for about an hour and then I decided to do some helmetcam shots. Which we will maybe never see, because the cam got ripped, ironically, on the smallest wave of the day. Shit luck, yet everybody is invited for some late December scuba diving, haha.